Home winterization and weatherstripping

Everyone knows that energy is very expensive and is becoming harder to get, but there is something we can all do about it. This fact sheet is one of a series designed to make you aware of some of the things you can do to reduce your energy bills and to increase your sense of energy security.

If you want to beat rising energy prices and become more self-sufficient, study this information and put it to practical use.

The time and money you invest in weather-stripping and caulking windows and doors can pay off faster than almost any other home improvement you can make, even when your house is already well insulated. From 15 to 60 percent of the heating and cooling your house needs is due to air exchange. Warming the air that leaks into the house in winter, or, conversely, cooling the air that leaks into it in the summer, takes energy and costs you money. Besides keeping out moisture, wind, and hot or cold air, weather stripping will block entry of dust and noise, resulting in a cleaner, quieter home. Both weather-stripping and caulking are economical, do-it-yourself jobs.

Everyone knows that energy is very expensive and is becoming harder to get, but there is something we can all do about it. What people don't know however is that the vast majority of homes constructed in this area lack proper insulation around windows and doors. This can account for a dramatic loss of heating and cooling from the home.

This fact sheet is one of a series designed to make you aware of some of the things you can do to reduce your energy bills and to increase your sense of energy security.

If you want to beat rising energy prices and become more self-sufficient, study this information and put it to practical use.

Weatherstripping Doors and Windows

Weather stripping may be purchased by the foot or in handy kits complete with the seal and fasteners for a single door or window. Installation instructions and diagrams are provided on most weather stripping packages. Some weather seals are surface mounted and are visible, while others are concealed when the door or window is closed. They may be made of a variety of materials.

Bronze Weather Strip - Thin bronze strip in various widths with one side flared out. Tacked to door jamb so when door is closed strip presses against the flared side making a tight fit. Also used for casement windows; not suitable for double-hung windows except at top and bottom. Low cost; easy to install; durable; not affected by moisture or temperature.

Vinyl V-Seal Weather Strip - Vinyl strip is folded to form a seal before applying. Scissors are used to cut to exact size. Paper backing is peeled off as tape is pressed into place on door and window jambs, stops or sash. Surfaces must be clean and dry. Low cost; easy to install; durable; not affected by moisture or temperature.

Sponge Rubber Neoprene-Coated Strip - Round, high- durable sponge rubber with a spring steel reinforced strip for attachment. Provides exceptional holding strength when tacked or stapled. For bottom of door, fasten to door; for sides, fasten to door jamb. Also used on windows by fastening to appropriate frame, stop, and sash. Easy to install.

Weather Strip and Caulking Cord - Five or six caulking cords in a strip for sealing cracks in windows, doors, and around room air conditioners. Applied by pressing in place. Cord stays pliable and adheres to any surface. Low cost; easy to apply; durable; not affected by moisture.

Air Conditioner Weather Strip - Rectangular polyfoam that press-fits between the top frame or lower sash and upper pane to seal off the air spaces between window and air conditioners. Low cost; easy to install.

Vinyl Weather Strip - General-purpose moisture and temperature resistant strip easily applied to wood or metal with tacks, staples, screws, or a good commercial adhesive. Tube-shaped for a tight fit, with extended strip for stapling or bonding to door and window jamb, stops, or sash. Easy to apply; durable.

Aluminum and Felt Strip - Aluminum strip crimped to thin felt strip provides added strength for tacking and holding to door jambs and window stops. Can be used for round-top doors. Felt may tear during normal use, especially on doors; felt is not as effective when wet.

Felt Weather Strip - Low-cost material in various widths and thicknesses. Fasten to wood by tacking or stapling and to metal with a good adhesive. Must be applied to door stop, sill, or sash so it fits snugly against other member. Easy to apply; tears easily during use; not as effective when wet.

Self-adhesive Foam Tapes - High-grade, resilient sponge rubber or vinyl with paper or vinyl backing in thicknesses up to three-eights of an inch and widths up to three-quarters of an inch. Backing is peeled off as tape is pressed in place on door and window jambs, stops, or sash. Surfaces must be clean and dry; should be applied at room temperature for best adhesion. Low-cost, easy-to install foams tend to deteriorate when exposed to weather; may last only one season.

Door Bottoms - Door bottom weather stripping is available in several materials. While easy to apply, these products can interfere with door swing and require a reasonably level threshold beneath the door. Only simple handtools are required to install any of these door bottoms. After cutting to size with a hacksaw or tin snips, the door bottom is surface mounted to the inside of the door using wood screws normally provided by the manufacturer.

A fairly new innovation in weather stripping is the mechanically operated "automatic" door bottom. In this model a vinyl seal is automatically lowered against the floor when the door is shut. The seal retracts when the door is opened.

Thresholds - A more attractive method of windproofing the bottom of a door is with a threshold. Thresholds are effective in cutting down wind infiltration, the average homeowner may find them difficult to install.

A popular threshold is an aluminum model with a flexible vinyl "bulb." When new, this threshold is effective; but under constant use the bulb soon collapses, leaving a sizeable crack beneath the door. In most cases the vinyl is replaceable.

Though not the easiest type to install, the combination vinyl door bottom and aluminum threshold is long- and provides effective weatherproofing. Since the vinyl is mounted in an aluminum extrusion fastened to the door,the aluminum threshold bears the brunt of wear.

Caulking

Do-it-you yourselfers will find many caulking compounds in a wide range of prices. Most materials are packed in cartridges and can be applied easily with a caulking gun. For large jobs, 5-gallon containers of caulking for guns are used. Manufacturers usually print on each cartridge a description of the material, its performance quality, and directions for application.

Caulking materials that adhere to wood, glass, metal, plastic, and masonry should be selected since these materials expand and contract. Resistance to weathering, cracking, shrinkage, water, and mildew are also important. Some manufacturers will state the life expectancy of their product, if properly installed, inside or outside the home.

High-quality caulking compounds with a long life expectancy are generally the most expensive. Assuming that the caulking material is used outside as directed by the manufacturer, the following years of useful life may be expected: Silicone-30; polysulfides, polyurethanes, neoprene, acrylic (solvent release), vulcanized butyl rubber-20; acrylic-latex, butyl rubber, and synthetic caulking compounds-8 to 10; cheaper caulking compounds-3 to 5. (This is a partial list and is not meant to exclude any product.)

Caulking should not be applied at temperatures below 40°F. It should be installed when temperatures range between 45°F and 55°F. At these temperatures expansion and contraction at joints are at midway point.

Tips on Applying Caulk - Follow these pointers for successful application of caulking materials:

Use a caulk gun with an automatic release. When you press the release lever the caulk stops flowing instantly. This device makes caulking so much less messy it is well worth the extra dollar or so for the caulk gun.
Cut the tip of the cartridge at an angle. Cut only about 1/4" off the tip so that the hole is 1/8" to 1/4" in diameter. This is adequate to create a bead of caulk large enough for most cracks.
Remove old, dried sealing materials. Clean area with a solvent to remove grease or other substances that would prevent a tight bond.
Deposit caulk at the bottom of the seam so it fills without bubbling.
Never apply caulk to a porous surface.
Prime before application.
Never skimp. Use enough caulk to fill the crack or seam.
If caulk shrinks during drying, reapply.
Push the tip over the caulk so it forms a smooth bead across the area being sealed.

Where to Caulk: Exterior Sealing exterior cracks and seams is an important part of home maintenance. It reduces entry of air, dirt, and moisture into the house and contributes to lower heating and cooling costs:

Among the most important exterior areas of a house requiring attention are:

Joints between chimney and siding
Joints between eaves and gable molding
Joints between window sill and siding
Joints between window drip cap and siding
Joints between window sash and siding
Joints between windows and masonry
Door frames
Joints between masonry or concrete parts (steps, porches, etc.) and main part of house
Inside corners formed by siding

Where to Caulk: Interior

Sealing each room on the inside is the only way to prevent jets of air from coming inside. A good interior caulking job will increase the comfort of your home immeasurably. You may find gaps so wide that oakum or foam caulk are required. Tape a piece of tissue or plastic wrap to a pencil and check the following places for air leaks:

Where pipes enter
Where vents exit
Around duct vents
Between fireplace and walls
Between sheets of paneling
Door frames
Windows
Baseboards (even if you have wall-to-wall carpeting)
Fur downs
Built-in cabinets
Inside closets
Outlets and Switchplates (Gaskets for outlets and switchplates can help prevent air leakage through the walls. Several types are now available and are easily installed. Remember to cut off electricity to the switch to prevent a shock hazard.

Overhead garage doors

As the years go by the bottom garage door seal shrinks and hardens leaving a perfect entry point for cold, wind and even snow. Those of us who have heated and air conditioned garages know that weatherstripping replacement makes a significant difference in temperature. Yearly maintenance to keep it pliable is to simply apply a coat of Vaseline.